Speaking from my first day in India, it is whirl of constant deviation. From the moment we woke up to this moment, sitting on the bed of a flat we rented from a rich indian man (who was introduced to us by a man on a motorcycle who drove up to us on the street the night before) we haven't stopped experiencing vast differences in culture and socitey than our native glimmering isle.

We woke up tired. The night was not the most restful we have ever had, although the temperature was much nicer than we are used to. Lisa had a terrible night full of death filled nightmares, and I, with a paranoid first night in a strange country had no dreams.

Our friend, Nirav, who has a room one floor below us, was waiting for us in the lobby as arranged the night before. We are going to see a few apartments for rent, both long and short term, with an Indian man named Vikki.

We met Vikki the night before. After a wonderfully exciting trip down from Bankok (Mumbai) in a taxi - a jeep really, but whatever. After booking into our hotel (which we made reservations for from Mumbai - when Nirav called to confirm his reservation), we went to visit the ashram and from there went on to dinner.

Dinner was a treat. I personally am not (or I should say was not) a big fan of Indian food. It was far too spicy for my liking, too many strange herbs and chunks of thingies. Anyway, we went to dinner and ate the best Indian food I have ever had - probably because it was authentic and I was hungry.

So, on the walk back to the hotel, this Indian man pulled up next to us and asked us whether we were lookin for somewhere to stay for the duration. We told him yes, and he began to describe the 'special' places he had for offer. After a while we agreed to meet him in the morning, and we would go with him to his 'special' apartments.

We were not disappointed. In the morning he showed us an apartment for rent, which looked very well kept and clean. We had, however, agreed to meet Chin Maia, a gentleman from the ashram, and see what he had on offer, so we could not agree on anything until we had at least seen all of our options. Besides, Lisa and I had to get to the ashram for orientation and were running out of time. Vikki took Nirav to see another apartment, and we walked onward to the ashram.

Relaxation and acclimation were our goals for the next few days, so renting a flat was by far the best option available to us. Nirav intended to stay for two months, straight through the millenium, and needed a place to stay - which is what gave us the idea in the first place.

So, on to the ashram for orientation and general knowledge gathering. We had to buy robes for when we were in the ashram, so after orientation we again met with Nirav, who took us to a place he knew was reputable. He has been here before, and he is such a lovely person that he has adopted us as his tourees, showing us around and generally making life a million times easier with all of the information and guidance of a saint. Well, Lisa and I bought robes (which are indeed comfortable - even though originally I felt like I was wearing a dress.) Oh, and sandals.

After buying our robes, we met Chin Maia and went in an auto-rickshaw down the road to the offered apartment. We went in regular clothes, in case you were wondering.

I should stop and explain an auto rickshaw, we will be in them often. It is a cross between a golf cart and a mororcycle, covered all around except for at the sides, with a taxi-like meter stuck between the driver and pasengers. There are also a million of them. It's kind of like bumper cars, although none of them bump together (or at least so far as I have seen) - loads of similar small vehicles weaving and turning all over the road. I can just about make out the pattern of driving (on the left - I think) similar to the bumper-car scenario where you know it is supposed to go around in a circle, but it never really works out that way.

The apartment of Chin Maia's was half the price. It was definately half the price. It wouldn't have been too bad except for the lack of a 'Western style' toilet, the obvious chaos of the surrounding neighborhood, and the rubbish all over the floor and cupboards of the kitchen. Needless to say we were looking forward to meeting Vikki at four o'clock, after lunch.

Lunch was had at the ashram - Lisa had crisps, a coke, and a bananna. Very eastern. I had a pickle and cheese roll - yuck - and a cup of cha. Cha is basically Indian tea. It is flavoured with cinnamon, nutmeg, and several other spices blended with hot milk. I quite like it, although I would put a little bit of sugar in it next time.

Vikki and Mike, his friend, took us on their motorcycles to visit the apartment Nirav saw after we left for the ashram. It was lovely. He said it was the same price (which later we found out was not the case), and if we wanted it we could go and see the owner and talk it over with him.

The apartment was laid out with two bedrooms upstairs, one downstairs, with a lounge, kitchen, patio and garden out back. There were no occupants so far, and Nirav was interested in the other upstairs bedroom. Perfect. Let's go see the owner.

Wow. Over to the owners house. Huge house, very Indian grandiose. The owner was a very friendly 64 year old gentleman who laughed and smiled a lot (probably because he had so much money.)

We sat for what I will term 'negotiation' on the square covered patio in the middle of his front garden. Vikki and Michael on one side opposite myself, Nirav and Lisa to my left opposite the gentleman, on my right. Nirav, who had met the owner earlier that day when Vikki showed the property to, began the negotiation stating our interest in the places he had available.

The price was almost twice what we were told. Damn, Damn, Damn. We were told a daily rate of 600 rupies and Nirav 18000 for two months. The price was 1000 a day for us and 24000 for Nirav. Damn.

We told him it was too much, way above our budget, and that we were unable to cope with the increase from what we expected to pay. He explained what we were getting for our money, which we wholeheartedly and honestly agreed was lovely and very well kept, and insisted that we should pay his rate. We againg explained that we could not go that far.

He again explained what we were getting for our money, and how great a deal this was in our local currency. Which by the way is approximately 68.8 rupies per pound about 49 rupies per dollar. So by his price we were paying £14.50 a night. I explained that we were on an around the world trip and that every rupee counted where we were concerned, and that we could stay in our hotel for the same amount.

Eventually, probably after he realised that he was not getting anywhere with us, and that we were basically good people, he told us he would do a deal. He brought it down to 21000 for Nirav and 800 per day for us. We said it was still too much for us, and we probably needed to see what else was available. Although, to be honest it really was a great place, very close to the ashram - less than five minutes walk - very safe, and very clean.

We talked a bit, ummed and awwed, and after he reiterated the benefits a few times, agreed. He laughed, swingingly reached out his hand for a shake and 'Deal' was said by all. Amen. Time to move into our apartment for ten days. We did ask for the agreement in writing, and hope to get that tomorrow when we pay him the balance of our rent.

He then drove Lisa and I over to the apartment, and Nirav rode on the back of Vikki's bike. On the way over, we talked to him about his family, how many kids he had and learned about his grandchildren. He has a grandchild who wants to go over to america and study.So I told him about mom, who works in the International Department of one of the largest international exchange institutions, and he invited us to lunch with him and his grandson sometime next week when his grandson arrives.

Back to the hotel, pick up our things, into two rickshaws and over to our new apartment. Hooray. After unpacking Lisa, Nirav and I went to dinner at the Pizzeria Italian Restaurant where we read Tarot cards and ate pizzas, pasta and quesadillas. (I know, strange food for India) Now we are 'home' and about to go to bed. It took me a half an hour to hunt down and kill all of the mosquitos, so we don't need the mosquito net tonight, and it is now time for bed.

Goodnight all.

The Mosquito Hunter.

Nov 27th 1999, 00:24am - Pune, India